Beneath Reims: An Unforgettable Visit to Maison Ruinart

There are certain names in Champagne that seem to carry an atmosphere all of their own, and Ruinart is undoubtedly one of them.

I had admired the house and its wines long before visiting, but spending an afternoon at Maison Ruinart in Reims revealed a world that went far beyond the Champagne in the glass.

History, Chardonnay, ancient chalk, contemporary art and impeccable French style all seem to come together here.

Even the approach sets the tone.

You walk through a beautifully curved corridor lined with pale chalk-coloured walls before a sliding door opens into Ruinart’s wonderfully chic boutique. Beyond the wall-to-wall windows, the historic buildings of the Maison sit elegantly in the grounds.

Our small group of just 12 began the tour with a little history.

Founded in 1729, Ruinart is recognised as the oldest established Champagne house, and Chardonnay remains at the heart of its identity.

Our guide also introduced us to Ruinart’s long relationship with art. In 1896, the Maison commissioned Czech artist Alphonse Mucha to create one of its earliest advertising posters, a striking and rather provocative image for its time.

That connection with art remains very much alive today. Ruinart regularly collaborates with contemporary artists, and as we discovered, art is woven beautifully throughout the visitor experience.

From there, we descended into the production areas, where we had a brief introduction to Champagne-making and viewed the immaculate bottling and disgorgement facilities through glass.

Then came the real magic.

Into the crayères

As we went further underground, the temperature dropped noticeably and extra layers were very welcome.

Ruinart’s cellars stretch for around eight kilometres beneath Reims, with some of the ancient chalk crayères reaching approximately 40 metres underground.
Walking through them is extraordinary.

Millions of bottles quietly ageing in the cool darkness, surrounded by chalk that was formed when this part of France lay beneath an ancient sea.

One of the caves contained a particularly memorable art installation by Julian Charrière. Sound, light and water evoked the sea, creating a haunting connection between the chalk caves, their geological origins and the changing natural world.

Further underground, our guide explained ageing on the lees, riddling and the slow transformation that takes place inside each bottle.

Standing among all that Champagne while hearing how patiently it matures made the whole process feel much more tangible.

Three expressions of Chardonnay

Eventually we emerged into an elegant tasting room, where our small group sat around one round table for a relaxed but wonderfully informative tasting.

Naturally, Chardonnay was the theme.

First came Ruinart Blanc de Blancs.

I already knew and admired this Champagne, but tasting it at the source was even better. Elegant, gentle and beautifully rounded, with a lovely buttery quality and that unmistakable Ruinart finesse.

Next came Blanc Singulier Edition 19.

This was perhaps the most fascinating wine of the tasting.
Created in response to changing climatic conditions, it is 100% Chardonnay and zero dosage. Our guide explained that warmer years are changing the way Chardonnay ripens in Champagne, and Blanc Singulier explores what a future expression of the house style might look like.

I loved it.

It was more intense and slightly more yeasty than the classic Blanc de Blancs, with notes of white fruit, citrus and spice. Interestingly, I don’t think everyone around the table was quite as convinced — which made it even more interesting to discuss.

Then came Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2013.

Elegant, complex and beautifully brioche-like, with citrus, pastry, dried fruit and a lovely chalky freshness.

A wonderful Champagne and a perfect way to finish the formal tasting

One last glass...

Except we weren’t quite finished.

After the tour, my companions and I settled into the Ruinart bar for one final glass — this time the Rosé.

Alongside it came local Reims ham, sourdough and some exceptionally good butter.
Champagne, ham, bread and butter.

Proof that some of life’s greatest pleasures really are very simple.

What stayed with me most about Ruinart was how beautifully everything connected.

The history, the Chardonnay, the immaculate production, the ancient crayères, the art, the climate story and the sense of place all felt part of one very coherent identity.

There was class and quality throughout, but it never felt stiff.

Our guide was superbly knowledgeable, the tasting was relaxed and generous, and the whole afternoon felt wonderfully special.

I went to Ruinart already admiring the wines.

I left admiring the Maison.

A fabulous afternoon I’ll treasure for a very long time — and one I very much hope to repeat.

The Cheese Lady xx